Quest examines innovation, technology adoption, and societal impact through a multidimensional Ethics-Responsibility-Sustainability (ERS) lens. A contemporary innovation-related eve;nt or trend in society triggers each narrative, be it an article, a case study, or an interview story. In response, the narrative raises a thought-provoking ERS question on the consequences of that event or trend in the future and initiates a discussion on what that may imply for managers and policymakers across a spectrum of businesses—from start-ups to large corporates.
Fast Fashion: Fast on fashion,
slow on responsibility?
It’s a late evening in Indore, and Shreya, a young techie, walks through the vast Phoenix Citadel. Her eyes light up at the sight of ‘Sale: Up to 60% Off!’ at I & N. What was meant to be a quick errand turns into hours-long shopping spree; with multiple bags of trendy garments. This is a reflection of the growing penetration of fast fashion in India, driven by an aspirational middle class eager to keep up with the trends.
Shreya’s story mirrors that of youth across India, from metros to Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities1. However, the urge to stay stylish, fulfilled by affordable fast fashion, comes with a profound question.
What’s the true cost of such consumption?
Brands like Zara and H&M revolutionised the industry in the 1990s2, transforming supply chains to shrink production timelines and offer affordable, mass-produced clothing almost overnight. The excitement of ‘new arrivals every week’ was a major disruptor that changed the entire fashion retail landscape; seeing a trend on the runway or social media and wanting it in your closet ASAP.
Zara was one of the pioneers, and today, Chinese giant Shein has taken it to another level, releasing over ‘6,000 designs a day’3. This approach has driven massive consumption between 2000 and 2014; global clothing production doubled, and garments purchased per capita increased by 60%4.
This may be good for the economy, but not for the environment. For every five garments produced, three are discarded within a year; ending up in landfills or incinerators5.
Textile production emits 1.2
billion tons of CO₂ annually,
more than international flights
and shipping combined.
The fast fashion industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. The textile industry’s CO₂ emissions are estimated at 4 billion tons annually6. Additionally, it is the second-largest consumer of water worldwide, requiring about 2,700 litres to produce just one cotton T-shirt; enough to meet the drinking water needs of 1,080 people for one day7.
Microplastics from synthetic fibres such as polyester, a staple in fast fashion, further aggravate environmental concerns. Each wash of polyester clothing releases approximately 7,00,000 microplastic fibres, which eventually find their way into oceans and marine life. It is estimated that the textile industry contributes to 35% of the microplastics polluting our oceans8.
Furthermore, the dyeing and treatment processes of textiles account for 20% of global industrial water pollution9. Factories often discharge untreated wastewater laden with toxic chemicals into rivers and lakes, endangering aquatic ecosystems and human health.
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From workwear in the 19th century to a symbol of youthful rebellion in the 1950s, to a disposable product in the 2020s, denim has gone from being durable wear to a fashion statement to a fast fashion product, with limited lifespans!13
In FY 2024, while the overall fashion sector grew by 6%10, fast fashion skyrocketed by 30%-40%11.
Projections indicate that India’s fast fashion market, valued at $10 billion in 2023, could become a $50 billion industry by 203112. Social media influencers and e-commerce have driven this massive growth. Now even quick commerce platforms have partnered with fashion brands to offer fast fashion instantly!
A durable workwear fabric, denim, has now morphed into a disposable fashion product. Once symbolising rebellion and individuality, today’s jeans are fast-produced and short-lived, highlighting fast fashion’s influence.
This rapid growth in the fast fashion industry has now started to draw concerns and conversations around sustainability.
Leading brands have started to launch sustainability initiatives.
H&M’s Conscious Collection features recycled polyester and organic cotton garments. Levi Strauss & Co. introduced a denim recycling program encouraging customers to return old denim for recycling14.
But critics are not convinced. Many brands have faced greenwashing allegations driven by conflicts emanating from intent, business models and capacity constraints.
Despite the fashion industry’s sustainability efforts, critics argue that the initiatives serve as marketing tactics rather than genuine environmental contributions.
Fast fashion business models, which emphasize rapid production and consumption, are inherently conflicted with sustainable practices. Even where there is genuine intent, there are struggles with scaling sustainability efforts due to the complexity of recycling blended fabrics and the lack of infrastructure for large-scale recycling. Many brands market recycled fibres and carbon offsets. Yet only a fraction of their overall production might be a part of these initiatives. Greenwashing, where companies exaggerate their environmental efforts, is a real risk.
Fast fashion’s pursuit of rapid production often comes at a human cost as well. To meet tight deadlines and cost constraints, workers in developing countries endure unsafe environments, low wages, and extreme working hours. Add to that, the complexity of global supply chains makes it challenging to monitor labour practices effectively, allowing unethical practices to persist.
Reports have linked a leading Chinese fast-fashion label to child labour, 75-hour work weeks, and wages as low as $20/ day15. Investigations revealed unsafe factory conditions, including blocked stairways and hazardous working environments.
India’s garment sector also faces similar challenges, with vulnerable workers often exploited due to the absence of strong labour protections. The majority of garment workers are women, who are particularly vulnerable to gender-based violence and harassment in the workplace16.
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However, it is heartening to note that several Indian brands seem to be attempting to seriously embrace sustainable fashion by integrating eco-friendly materials and ethical production methods.
Doodlage upcycles factory waste and recycles post-consumer materials into fashion-forward collections. Their limited-edition collections are designed for longevity, and they repurpose any waste into accessories and packaging, all produced ethically and without plastic17.
No Nasties produces organic, fair-trade clothing emphasizing ethical fashion rooted in vegan ethos and sustainable practices18.
Upcycleluxe, India’s first carbon-neutral fashion marketplace, fits luxury with responsibility. The platform collaborates with various brands to offer eco-friendly products, promoting a sustainable lifestyle19.
Ka-Sha crafts unique designs emphasizing cultural exploration and sustainability and uses upcycled materials like discarded sneakers, plastic gunny sacks, and old chandeliers20.
Cottonworld supports organic cotton farming, promotes natural fabrics like linen and viscose, and runs initiatives like the ‘Adopt a Tree’ campaign, promoting environmental consciousness21.
Several brands today showcase how sustainability and style can coexist in India’s evolving fashion industry.
While we have not studied the business models of these firms in-depth, the very fact that so many founders are focused on building sustainability to the core of their product & branding is heartening.
These brands in our view exemplify a growing commitment amongst the start-up founders to sustainable fashion, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern, eco-friendly practices to create garments that are both stylish and responsible.
The choice is no longer about fast fashion vs sustainable fashion. The question is about sustainable fast fashion. Consumers and consumer awareness play a critical role in this transformation, driving demand for accountability and transparency in the fashion industry.
Encouragingly, consumer awareness about sustainable fashion is on the rise. A 2020 McKinsey survey revealed that 67% of global shoppers consider the use of sustainable materials an important factor in their purchasing decisions22. Additionally, 63% of respondents value eco-conscious brands that promote sustainability. This shift is evident in the growing popularity of second-hand clothing platforms such as ThredUp and Poshmark, whose sales surged by 69% between 2019 and 202122.
Younger consumers, particularly Gen Z, are leading the charge. Studies indicate that 75% of Gen Z respondents prefer to purchase from sustainable brands, even if it means paying a premium23. This demographic’s activism has driven movements like the Fashion Revolution, which campaigns for greater transparency in the fashion supply chain and encourages consumers to question the origins of their clothing.
Global initiatives are further evidence of this shift. For instance, students from Emmaus College in Central Queensland launched a swap shop to encourage peers to exchange high-quality second-hand clothing, reducing environmental impact. Similarly, Catadores, a recycling cooperative in Brazil, collaborates with brands like Veja to transform plastic waste into eco-friendly shoes, creating fully traceable and sustainable supply chains.
This rising awareness is also reflected in India. A report by The Economic Times highlighted that search for ‘sustainable fashion’ on Google increased by 37% between 2019 and 202224. Platforms like Upcycleluxe and The Revival Project have gained traction, showcasing how Indian consumers are embracing eco-conscious choices.
The pathway to sustainable fast fashion hinges on conscious consumerism. As awareness rises and movements gain momentum, the power of informed choices can steer the industry toward a more responsible future.
At WISE Tech, we have recently commissioned a survey to assess the consumer perceptions
around sustainability and the impact of these perceptions on purchase decisions.
We will share the results with you in March 2025.
So, as the world embraces fast fashion, we need to have
strong advocates for sustainable fast fashion. This article
is a humble effort to build awareness towards sustainable
fast fashion.
Sources
Email us at wisetech@spjimr.org. >
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